Press Day higlights: oki-ni Spring 11

Strange how fashion can transform a landscape. Only a year ago oki-ni began really pushing its unique combination of Vans/Nike/Adidas sneakers, technical backpacks and repurposed, loose designerwear from the likes of Damir Doma and Rick Owens. Now the same look has somehow, subconsciously, simultaneously spilled over my local streets of Camberwell, South London (those tags about the new Shoreditch seem to be coming true).

The same Vans, the same technical backpack, maybe a beanie and a designer-ish looking parka or cagoule. Wide jeans or trousers cuffed low with bright socks. Oversized shirt-jackets and slightly ethnic accessories. After the dapper, skinny and vintage looks, perhaps the oki-ni ‘look’ is one that’s going to eventually dominate the mainstream. But where do they go from here? Earlier this week, the new team presented their Spring 11 buy. Since the departure of many faces at the men’s online store, it seems they’ve had a good ol’ re-think.

There’s been an emphasis on colour, wardrobe and more ‘wearable’ brands with 30 new labels added to an already-impressive roster, including Thom Browne, Kitsune, Band Of Outsiders, exclusive knits from E. Tautz (a brand that I’m not sure really fits but what the hey) and the return of Raf by Raf.

Spring also sees the return of YMC, a brand I’d not normally get so excited about were it not for this charming nautical-meets-navajo print on an espadrille and t-shirt….

There’s some very direct buys from Raf’s retina-burning Jil Sander collection, which look great together.

Elsewhere, J.W. Anderson’s ‘The Devoured and I’ collection comes on sale, with oki-ni buyer Tim telling me that they’ve worked with J.W.’s studio to customise certain pieces for market- whether it’s scaling back some of that hi-sparkle Swarovski detailing to lower the prices a teensy bit to mere mortal standards…  if they can only make a way to lower the cost of those £1900 crystal-toed boots, I’ll be a happy boy.

Kitsune sneaker and J.W. Anderson monkey boot with knitted tongue. Amazing.

Never been a huge hoodie fan, but this tie-dye meets Liberty print number is so ostentatious it can’t be ignored…

Graphic applique trousers from Lou Dalton…

And a rather fine, preppy shirt from Band Of Outsiders with a lovely red cardigan. Just the kind of basic anyone could wear…

Finally, this top from Raf which zips at the back. Almost so Raf Simons it’s bordering on parody, the zip for the back has to be seen to be believed- it’s almost as long as the top itself and can be replaced (oki-ni will be buying the replacement zips too). A cardigan with an oversized zip and a blazer with ribbons hanging across the back added some surprises to this collection which sadly I didn’t see in person. I can feel my bank account getting very worried.